Places
Places
Astana is easy to misjudge from the postcards. Baiterek, the glass pyramid, the tent-shaped mall: the official skyline looks like…
Places
Astana became the capital of Kazakhstan in 1997, and almost everything a visitor comes to see was built after that…
History
Astana is a capital that was mostly built in the last 25 years, on a flat steppe where winter lasts…
Places
Almaty stopped being the capital of Kazakhstan in 1997, and nobody in the city seems to have noticed. It remains…
Places
Almaty sits at the foot of the Zailiysky Alatau, the northernmost ridge of the Tian Shan. The mountains start where…
Places
Kyzylkum means "red sand," and from the Khiva road that is all you see: low dunes, saxaul bushes, the occasional…
History
Bukhara is the most compact of the three big Silk Road cities in Uzbekistan. Samarkand spreads its monuments across a…
Hotels
Bukhara's old town is small enough that a hotel choice comes down to a few hundred meters. Everything a visitor…
Hotels
Samarkand's hotel scene splits into two kinds of places: courtyard guesthouses in the old mahallas around the Registan, and modern…
History
Samarkand has been a city for at least 2,750 years, and almost everything a visitor photographs was built in a…
Places
Samarkand can be done in a day if all you want is the Registan, Gur-e-Amir and Shah-i-Zinda. Most people who…
Places
Samarkand feels ancient because it is. Settlement on this spot goes back more than 2,500 years, and the city has…